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Sex Doll Pricing Guide: What Affects The Cost And Where To Save
Between the cheapest and the most costly sex doll there's a massive gap, running from a few hundred pounds for basic models to a number of thousand for premium custom builds. Learn what drives the price. It's one of the most handy things any customer can do, because it's the difference between paying a fair cost for a doll you'll love and overspending on features you don't need or underspending on quality you'll regret. Rather than guessing, you can make an informed decision, and this guide breaks down the factors that impact the cost.
 
Five Hundred to a Thousand Pounds Cheaper
The base material is the single biggest cost driver. Silicone dolls cost considerably more than TPE dolls, normally by five hundred to a thousand pounds, since TPE is a cheaper material and has a faster manufacturing process. For a basic TPE doll you might pay eight hundred pounds; an equivalent silicone doll costs fifteen hundred. Silicone is harder to work with, requires more accurate manufacturing, and holds detail better, all of which add cost; the gap isn't because silicone is inherently better. TPE is the sensible entry point for purchasers on a budget, whereas silicone is worth the premium for customers who want maximum durability and detail.
 
Eight Hundred vs Eighteen Hundred
Number two among the biggest drivers is the size and body type. Cost goes up for taller dolls, which use more material and need a larger skeleton. There's the same reason behind curvier dolls costing more than slim dolls. BBW dolls use even more material, which makes them cost more than curvy dolls. Specialty body types, such as large boobs and big booty, also cost more, as the sculpting is more intricate and the material volume is bigger. The difference between a 150cm slim doll at eight hundred pounds and a 165cm BBW doll at eighteen hundred is almost completely material and labour.
 
Driver Three: The Skeleton
The skeleton is the third driver, and it's one that buyers often underestimate. A standard skeleton with bolt joints is cheaper, while a yoga skeleton with stainless steel locking joints is more expensive, generally by two to four hundred pounds. Replacement costs much more than the upgrade, and the standard skeleton will fail under the weight, so the yoga skeleton is worth the upgrade for any doll over 35kg. Spend the savings on other features when the doll is lighter, as the standard skeleton is usually fine.
 
The Most Visible Part of the Doll
The head sculpt is driver number four. You'll pay more for custom heads or premium sculpts than for standard heads, which are cheaper. Particular head sculpts, particularly the more detailed or popular ones, can cost additional from some producers, to the tune of a few hundred pounds. The head is the most apparent part of the doll, and it's worth paying for a sculpt you love, because the head is the thing you look at every day. Replacing it or acquiring a different doll totally is where a cheaper head that you don't love ends up, which makes it a false economy.
 
Photographers Should Prioritize the Wig
It's the hair that is the fifth driver. Standard synthetic wigs are included in the base price, while premium wigs, human hair wigs, or lace-front wigs cost extra. Fifty to three hundred pounds can be the difference, depending on the type of wig. A wig that lasts and looks natural is worth a bit more money; a decent wig makes a sizable difference to the doll's appearance, and a cheap one looks cheap. If you plan to photograph the doll regularly, prioritize wig quality; the wig is regularly the most clear sign of a cheap doll.
 
Eyes Change the Whole Expression
The eyes are driver number six. Premium eyes, hand-painted eyes, or custom eye colours cost extra, while standard eyes are included. Specialty eyes can add a hundred pounds or more, even though the difference is usually small. The expression can be totally changed by the eyes, the second most visible part of the doll after the head, so it's worth paying for eyes that match the character you're making. With anime, fantasy, and stylized dolls the eyes are a defining feature, so this is particularly major.
 
Hands Worth Paying For
Number seven is the hands. Standard wire hands are cheaper, while articulated hands with stainless steel finger joints cost additional, typically fifty to a hundred pounds. Worth the upgrade for nearly every purchaser are articulated hands, as the standard wire hands break eventually and the cost of replacement is higher than the cost of the upgrade. One of the simplest upgrades to justify is this one, which pays for itself over the life of the doll.
 
Options That Non-Standing Feet Don't Offer
The feet are driver number eight. Non-standing feet cost less, and standing feet with metal bolts cost typically fifty to a hundred pounds additional. Alternatives that non-standing feet don't offer come with standing feet, which makes them worth the upgrade for any doll you plan to display, photograph, or shower with. Put the savings towards other features, since non-standing feet are perfectly adequate for dolls that will only be used in bed.
 
When Built-In Is the Better Choice
It's the orifice type that is the ninth driver. In the base price you get built-in orifices, and removable inserts are normally an additional that occasionally costs a hundred to two hundred pounds. The long-term cost of maintaining built-in orifices is higher than the cost of a set of inserts, and inserts are easier to clean and replace, so they're worth the upgrade for most purchasers. Prioritizing realism over convenience makes built-in orifices the better choice, but for everyone else, inserts are the sensible alternative.
 
Turning a Stock Doll Into a Custom Doll
The facial features come tenth as a driver. A standard face is included, and custom features like special makeup, particular expressions or movable jaws are paid extras. A hundred to three hundred pounds is what a movable jaw adds, depending on the producer, and customers who want maximum expressiveness will find it worth the premium. Custom makeup adds a comparable amount and is worth it for anyone who wants a precise look. They're worth the additional cost if you care about them, and these are the details that turn a stock doll into a custom doll.
 
The Sweet Spot for Many Buyers
The body material ranks as the eleventh driver, though it's often overlooked. Mix a TPE body with a silicone head and you get a hybrid that costs more than pure TPE but less than pure silicone, and often the best value for money; the softness of TPE is where it matters most and the detail of silicone is where it matters most. Many customers find the hybrid the sweet spot, as it might cost twelve hundred pounds against eight hundred for a pure TPE and fifteen hundred for a pure silicone.
 
Where You Buy Changes the Price
The retailer is the twelfth driver. You'll normally pay less purchasing directly from a maker than from a retailer, because there's no middleman markup. If you buy from a manufacturer, expect long lead times and less purchaser service, whereas retailers offer faster shipping and better support. Before you acquire, compare both choices; the price difference can be significant, at times ten to twenty percent. Regularly the cheaper alternative for buyers who are self-assured in what they want is buying direct. For purchasers who want support and quick shipping, purchasing from a vendor is often worth the premium.
 
Worth It for Something Truly Unique
The customization level is driver number thirteen. A custom doll costs more than a stock doll because it requires more labour and more time, while the manufacturer can produce a stock doll in bulk. How far custom dolls cost two to three times more than stock dolls depends on the level of customization. Buyers who want something really unique will find custom worth the premium. The better value for the standard-option customer is stock.
 
Driver Fourteen: The Brand
The brand comes fourteenth as a driver. Premium brands justify charging more with a reputation for quality, better materials, and better buyer service. The risk of disappointment is higher with budget brands, which charge less but whose quality can vary enormously. Purchasers who want peace of mind will find a premium brand worth the premium. Willing to do the research and take a bit of risk? Then a budget brand can offer outstanding value.
 
Driver Fifteen: Shipping and Tax
Overlooked frequently, the shipping and tax costs are driver number fifteen. International shipping on a substantial doll can run to hundreds of pounds, and import taxes can tack on another twenty percent to the total. Retailers differ: some include shipping in the cost, others charge separately, and the difference can be notable. Because a doll that's cheap but has pricey shipping and taxes is not genuinely cheap, invariably check the total landed cost before you order, not just the sticker cost.
 
Support Is a Price Factor
The sixteenth cost driver is the warranty and support. The cost of those services is created into the price by sellers who offer a genuine assurance, responsive buyer service and a hassle-free returns guideline, so they charge more. Vendors with no assurance, slow support or a no-returns rule charge less, yet they're a much higher risk. Want peace of mind? A vendor with a decent assurance is usually worth a bit more, because a dispute or a damaged doll costs much more than the premium.
 
Final Word on What to Pay
The bottom line is that the price of a sex doll is driven by a combination of material, size, skeleton, features, and brand, and the differences between a cheap doll and a premium doll are real. You may be paying for features you don't need with the most pricey alternative, so it isn't necessarily the best, while the cheapest alternative is seldom the best, as it ordinarily means cutting corners on the features that matter most. What makes a cost right is getting the features you actually want, from a vendor you trust, at a cost you can afford. The remainder is noise. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  special info (http://crewride.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=640574) not forgetting sites such as  full report (http://my-xanadu.org/viewtopic.php?t=12917) and  visit this website (http://forum.dcm-works.net/viewtopic.php?t=12709) for more.