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A Beginner's Guide To Using A Sex Doll: Everything You Need To Know
Perhaps you've already bought your first doll, or perhaps you're on the verge of doing so. Unbox a 35 kg silicone human in your living space and there's a moment of mild panic as you stand there and think: now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. You will not find filler or assumptions that you already know here, just real-world guidance on what you'll truly need in your first week and how to steer clear of costly slip-ups in your first month. Read it once before she arrives and once more after she's here, as the second pass will make significantly more sense and you will catch things you glossed over the first time.
 
Before you so much as open the package, a few things are worth doing, as after she's out of the package, moving her around becomes significantly harder. Decide exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" does not count, so pick an actual area like a cabinet, a corner, or a storage container. The last thing you would like is to be improvising storage at 11 at night with a bare doll in your arms, as dolls are weighty and cumbersome. Obvious the space she'll rest on, be it a bed, floor, or storage container, and inspect it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, as dark-toned blankets, poorly dyed fabrics, and anything that might release dye are a risk. On carpet, lay something smooth under her. Any low bed can sag under her pressure in time, so verify it will not.
 
Get everything you need ready before she arrives:
1. Cornstarch or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for limbering up joints)
3. A clean, light-toned cloth (for the dye check)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying sticks (for the cavities)
6. Mineral oil formulated for TPE (if relevant)
7. A soft make-up brush (for powdering)
 
None of this breaks the bank, but all of it counts. Maybe twenty quid covers the whole kit, and it is the variation among a doll that holds its condition and one that does not. Open the package with maintenance instead of tearing into it, and if the package is damaged, image it before you open it, as that is your sole protection for a warranty case. Verify her quickly once the package is open: look for rips in the armpits and groin, be sure all fingers are undamaged, and confirm the head sculpt matches the order you placed. Get in feel with the supplier before you do anything else if something's wrong, and image it right away, seeing as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
 
Practically every new buyer is caught off guard by the next aspect: she will feel rigid. Tight joints are totally standard straight from the factory and do not mean any part is broken. The joints need easing before you can pose her, and the technique is easy. Soften the TPE around every joint with a hair dryer on a gentle setting, not hot, after that slowly move each joint through its whole range of motion, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Never force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it more. Spend an entire hour on this. It sounds excessive, but it is what separates a doll you will in fact pose from one that ends up stuck in the same pose as you gave up.
 
She's heavier than she looks, and this catches everyone. A 35 kg doll doesn't seem like much up to the point you lift her from a low position and the load is concentrated in the wrong places, so use correct lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs in place of your back. Hug her where possible, grabbing under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, because the closer she is to your centre of balance, the less load you will feel. Since TPE and silicone both hold body warmth reasonably well, she's warmer than you anticipate, and she'll feel less plastic than you'd probably expected the first time you feel her with care. This is the biggest reason people say their dolls feel alive, not seeing as of movement or AI, but since the material truly reacts when touched in a manner that startles you.
 
TPE gets sticky with time, especially in high temperatures or after cleansing, so keep up a regular powdering process: a fine dusting of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft powder brush maintains the exterior smooth and clean, and it should be done after each cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, seeing as TPE sheds oil with time, and a thin coat of mineral oil made specifically for TPE dolls every three months or so maintains the cloth soft and prevents splitting, even though using too much oil makes the finish oily and picks up dust faster than dried-out skin does, so do not go overboard.
 
Believe of cleansing as a regime, not a one-off. After use:
1. Remove any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifice areas using warm water and mild detergent
3. Dry everything fully with drying stands (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Dust the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Keep her correctly
 
Do not treat this as optional, since if you skip it you will get mould building up inside her in as little as a few weeks. At around 45 minutes the entire process takes longer than most owners expect, which is the chief reason old hands switch to removable liners, which cut that time approximately in half.
 
Newcomers make their biggest blunder here, as they don't think about storage until it is a concern. Hanging is best, using a heavy-duty overhead hook rated for at least 60 kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in one position without putting load on the joints, and this is the method most old hands use. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: level surfaces are fine and bumpy ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long stretches can squash her buttocks or breasts, so vary the position every so often. UV damages both TPE and silicone and discolours wigs and tinted details fast, so never leave her in bright sunlight, and keep her in a cabinet or a covered storage package.
 
The internet has a lot of opinions about owning dolls, most of which are false or overstated. Yes, she's bulky and her joints need maintenance, but there's no need to be "careful" in the sense of fussing over her, seeing as she's designed to be used and she's not made of glass. Embarrassment isn't needed, as huge numbers of people own sex dolls, the sector has grown dramatically in the last ten years, and the shame has faded quickly, which makes owning one a personal decision and not a moral failing.
 
Treating her like a person isn't a requirement either. Building complex characters and personas for their dolls is component of the appeal for many owners, which is great, but you do not have to, and a doll for bodily pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. Get the day-to-day side right and the rest is individual taste, as no one else gets a say on how you use something you bought.
 
Each owner ends up with their own procedure, and mine, for what that is worth, is uncomplicated. Spend a couple of minutes easing the joints ahead of every session to inspect that nothing is inflexible, as opposed to the entire hour from the first time, and powder following every clean without fail. Examine the dye test on any fresh clothing even if you've used the same brand before, keep a replacement wig within reach as synthetic material takes longer to dry than you'd anticipate and you do not would like to be waiting, and keep her correctly every time. Nothing here is fiddly, it's simply the process that holds your doll in top condition for years on end as opposed to months.
 
Your first month will teach you much of what you should know, and the slip-ups you make early tend to be minor ones provided you're careful. The things that go wrong later are the pricey ones, and they nearly always stem from something skipped in the first couple of weeks. Examples include a joint freed up too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, and a storage solution that looked fine until the pressure sunk into it. Go slowly at the beginning and the rest looks after itself.
 
There's also the question of what to do when something does eventually go wrong, seeing as it will. It could be a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a dye mark that will not come out. Panicking and assuming the doll is wrecked is the instinct, but practically everything short of a broken skeleton is fixable if you deal with it early. TPE mending kits cost virtually nothing and handle compact splits. Tightening or replacing loose joints is possible. The one thing that does not come out is marks, this is why the cloth test counts for so much. Find out which issues are fixable and stop fretting over the ones that aren't.
 
A doll is a major purchase that deserves careful handling, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." Skip easing the joints, regular powdering, and proper storage and you will be replacing her considerably sooner than you expected, but do them and you will get years out of her. The opening week is the hardest, and after that it turns into routine. More info at this rosslink. Also check out  i loved this (http://crewride.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=640830) alongside all  read this post here (https://pari-ot-internet.com/viewtopic.php?t=5983) together with  navigate to these guys (https://california.chat/showthread.php?tid=252) which is worth considering with  visit site (https://forums.librenetwork.org/showthread.php?tid=537) bearing in mind  this post (https://bloodhunterviktor.com/bhforums/showthread.php?tid=893) not to mention  published here (https://gelsenkirchen1904.de/thread-1482.html) on top of  click here (https://app.pagetelegram.com/viewtopic.php?t=100080) alongside all  the original source (https://prepperforum.se/showthread.php?tid=107851) which is worth considering with  her comment is here (http://forum.dcm-works.net/viewtopic.php?t=12632) and  my latest blog post (https://www.blitzschmiede-mv.de/viewtopic.php?t=47687) for more.